Ngemi Keda

I prepared a beautiful salad made with 9 ingredients in solidarity with the inaugural Ngemi Na Ndũhio Festival as it was taking place . This festival celebrates and invigorates the Agĩkũyũ culture. The recipe is a representative of the Agíkùyù Diaspora and the different ways in which we are influencing our second homes and how we too are influenced by existing in a duality of cultures. My interest has always been the interpretation of that duality through food. The ingredients selected are 9, a very important number in the Agǐkuyu culture on many accounts. But my recipes is geared towards cultural practice of welcoming a newborn at birth, a concept also captured in the first name of the Festival. Whenever a child was born among the Agĩkuyu, the women would welcome the newborn with five ululating 5 times for a boy and 4 times for a girl child. Each ululation had a specific meaning. The boys got one extra ululation for courage as they were the gender that formed the security of the community. The other four ululation represented gift or talent, intelligence, upright character and wealth.

I used nine to represent the combined ululation for both boys and girls to represent a renewal of a nation facing many challenges. One of those challenges is that of food sovereignty. I dedicate much of my time on this issue. I was eager to support this great initiative for many reasons but also to both revisit the recess of my memory and its attendant nostalgia of the oldest keepers of our covenant with our ancestors whom I can remember from my childhood. Amongst those people are my grandparents. I am equally eager to share what we are doing on the ground to heal a sick nation following an elaborate effort by the colonial forces to turn these once proud and politically astute people into creatures of prey to hunted and exploited by foreigners.

At the center of this recipe is pomegranate fruit, accompanied by root vegetables and fruits. The other ingredients are pears, persimmon, rainbow radish, watermelon radish, purple beet root, parsnip and sweet potatoes. Pomegranate is the most influential fruit in the history of man. But I don’t want to get ahead of myself. We will cover that later. If we are to counter the oppressors narrative of an original sin that resulted from the wayward primordial couple eating a fruit, our journey might rightly start by eating organic salad whose ingredients are fit for the gods such as our ancestors and ourselves.

Either way I look at it, the 9 ululations are expression of both the need and the consequences of food justice. Any newborn is a symbol of the continuity of a certain lineage and the presence of peace political and domestic tranquility in the community to allow for the community welcome of a newborn. In other words each ululation must be an affirmation of food sovereignty. That is exactly why the number 9 is a perfect number for ululation as it is highest number that represents energy and constancy. If the sum of any number multiplied by 9 ends up being 9, food too is a constant in our existence.